Fiona and I spent our honeymoon in Capetown and its environs, and although diving wasn’t the primary objective, we couldn’t pass by the opportunity to get under the water in some fashion. Our first dive was in the Two Oceans aquarium in the V&A Waterfront area, where we got to dive in the predator tank. Any qualified diver can do this for a small fee, and it seemed like an interesting way to get acquainted with the local marine megafauna. The tank is about 4 metres deep at its deepest and has the surface area approximately of a tennis court. It’s doughnut shaped with a modest anticlockwise current, and stocked with three sharks, a turtle, and various other fish including mantas and a shoal of yellowfin tuna. The sharks themselves didn’t seem to bothered by our presence, except for one of the smaller ones which approached us on a number of occasions, only to be dispatched by our divemaster’s high-tech shark-poking device (which looked suspiciously like half a broom handle).
Our first attempt to get under the open water was with a local expat Scotsman called Iain Robertson who operates out of Simon’s Town on the shores of False Bay. I was looking forward to seeing the famous Kelp Forests of this area. I’ve never been a huge fan of kelp, especially the short dense variety that thrives around the Irish coast, but the descriptions I’ve seen of the local algae seemed like a completely different matter. In the end, I was to be a little disappointed; a recent change to the licensing regulation for diving in this protected area led us to being caught without the requisite paperwork on the day, and we had to be content with a snorkel instead from the local Boulders beach – a spot frequented by a large colony of African penguins. The most I managed was a 3 metre duck dive, but I think I managed to get some sense of what the area had to offer.
Our last couple of nights in South Africa were spent in the small seaside town of Hermanus, where, following a day of whale-watching around Dyer’s Island, we hooked up with a local dive operator – Scuba Africa – and finally managed to get a couple of proper open-water dives. The temperatures and viz here were comparable to what we get back home, but the amount of life and the colours reminded me more of tropical waters. Crayfish in particular were in plentiful supply, with every decent-sized crack in the reef providing shelter to anything up to eight or nine of them.
Apparently we were very lucky with the weather there. For the previous few weeks, strong winds and rain had led to a large number of cancelled dives, but on the day we arrived, the previous evenings winds had dissipated and we enjoyed a beautiful sunny day. On our second dive, we spotted a whale in the harbour. It would have been something else to be able to get into the water with her, but conservation regulation prevented the boat from getting too near. Instead, we were treated to a swimming display from a curious seal; a fitting end to our day’s diving and the last day of our holiday.